[Cellar Selection] "Cellar Selection - A champion of the celebrated Les Clos, this powerful, soul-reaching wine highlights the finesse of grand cru Chablis even in the hottest of vintages. Indisputably massive, unctuous even, it pulsates with yellow-cherry and peach flavors yet remains anchored in steel and breathtaking tension. It’s explosive in fruit now but will gain deeper nuance and complexity with time. Best After 2024."
Here’s a sample that has not been reviewed by this publication in a long while, or decades really. Packaged with a retro-looking black label and bold red font, the Fattoria dei Barbi 2018 Brusco dei Barbi is made with Sangiovese. Actually, the technical sheet reads “mostly” Sangiovese, and I imaged the other blending components to be complimentary Tuscan indigenous grapes. The wine is initially shy, but with some effort, you get dark fruit, blackcurrant, and wild rose. The 2018 vintage is not big on intensity, and to the palate, this mid-weight red offers good freshness. Interestingly, this wine was created as the result of fermentation experiments by Giovanni Colombini in the 1960s and 1970s
Very open and expressive, with a burst of dark cherry preserve backed by a hint of anise. Features a flash of warm earth that keeps it just honest enough on the finish. Grenache and Syrah. Drink now. 30,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.
This red bursts with youthful, juicy black cherry and blackberry flavors, accented by mint, spice and earth. Well defined and intense, ripe fruit and mineral notes linger on the resonant finish. Best from 2023 through 2035. 3,800 cases made, 200 cases imported.
The Fattoria dei Barbi 2020 Rosso di Montalcino promises a simple and easy-drinking approach, and that’s exactly what it delivers. The wine is redolent of sweet cherry and redcurrant, but there are some tarry and earthy tones that are specific to Sangiovese from Montalcino.
Fattoria dei Barbi is one of the historic, grandfather estates of the appellation, and this important point comes to mind every time I have the honor of reviewing their new releases. The wines always show a distinctly traditional side that is just part of this estate’s DNA, and I’d like to think that this defining characteristic would not change even if a concerted effort was made to do so. Territory speaks loud in the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. The wine offers purity and deep layering with alternating tones of dried cherry, dark spice, cola, and crushed flowers. Only 4,000 bottles were made
In spite of a hint of charcoal, this is a very deep and charming wine with an entire microcosm of spice on the powerful yet refined.
Enchanting and complex nose of red fruit, tobacco leaf, licorice and delicate spices. Super-sensual palate that’s rich and refined, with so many nuances that you could spend hours studying it. Stunning interplay of ripe fruit with raw-meat and smoked-bacon character. Very long, silky finish that makes it hard not to take another gulp. Sustainable. Drink or hold.
Bodegas Castro Martin
Albariño Sobre Lias Rias Baixas DO
Destilados y Bodegas de Galicia 2022
January 21, 2022
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