Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2016

Musk and earthen complexities of smoke and struck flint meld into sun-kissed yellow cherry and tangerine in this seductive, complex kabinett. It's ethereal and sheer yet boldly penetrating, with a piercing lemon-lime finish. Delicious already but sure to improve through 2022 and hold well beyond.

A penetrating nose features gooseberry, cassis, apricot and apple, and suggestions of seeds and pits as well as a nettle-like prickle lend invigorating crunch and piquancy to the brightly animating, cheek-scouring acidity that emerges on the palate. But even as you feel the impact of the acids, there is a sheer juiciness that keeps them from turning uncomfortably severe. And the penetrating finish here, predictably, delivers a decisive impression of wet stone and displays admirable balance as regards sweetness. This sole regular Mller Kabinett of its vintage (theres also an Alte Reben bottling) has plenty of cellar potential. And it makes up nearly half of this years combined Scharzhofberg and Braune Kupp production.

This is very clean and pure with an intense herbal-mineral quality that's beautifully complemented by the apple and berry notes. The finish has an Alpine meadow freshness that no other kabinett from this vintage I've tasted has, and that's the most exciting thing about it.