Pouilly Fuissé Tête de Cru 2015

A blend from more than 20 individual vineyard sites, this wine is an excellent reflection of the Pouilly-Fuiss appellation. With a strong mineral character as well as tight acidity, it is structured, rich and intense. Drink from late 2019.

(60% aged in oak, 25% new, the rest in stainless steel): Yellow-straw color seemed to lighten with air. Aromas of yellow apple, baking spices, menthol and marzipan complicated by saline minerality. Very rich, tactile, concentrated wine with the almost roasted ripeness of the vintage leavened by dusty stone and salty minerality. There's a slightly evolved yellow apple and licorice aspect to this wine that I'm not wild for, yet it also possesses strong framing acidity (from blocked malo?). Finishes quite dry and a touch harsh, with repeating menthol and saline notes and good but not outstanding length.

The 2015 Pouilly-Fuissé Tête du Cru is a blend of 40 different parcels on slate or sandy soils. There are around 20 to 25 vinifications of individual plots matured in 70% oak barrels (around one-quarter new), the remainder in stainless steel, where, in order to preserve balance, the malolactics were sopped for the cuvees aged in stainless steel tanks. The aromas gradually unfurl here with scents of white flower and hazelnut, touches of strawberry, or rather "punnet of strawberry" developing with time, The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity and fine mineralite, with good salinity and a slight oiliness to the texture on the finish. I like the depth here, and while it does not possess enormous length, it has a linearity and tension that is commendable, given the warmth of the growing season. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2027.

A ripe, opulent style, well-structured courtesy of the vibrant acidity. Peach, apple and baking spice flavors are up front, with a stony element chiming in on the finish. Shows fine balance and expression. Best from 2018 through 2024.

A difficult nose displays post-malo lactic and wood toast aromas. Otherwise there is a relatively sleek mouth feel to the delicious and notably rich middle weight flavors that are refreshing and persistent if not especially complex.