At their best, Italian wines embody a blend of alluring aromas, profound fruit, depth and minerality, and focused acidity unique in the world of wine. After they’ve tasted wines from different regions, Italian wine lovers soon come to a realization about Nebbiolo. When made well, Nebbiolo-based wines can age for decades and are easily among the best red wines in the world.

In Lombardia, near Italy’s northern Swiss border, Valtellina forms a narrow strip, twenty-five miles long, on the banks of the Adda River. Amid very mountainous terrain, this is the largest terraced vineyard area in Italy, comprised of two DOCG regions: Valtellina and Valtellina Superiore. Within Valtellina Superiore are four subregions or crus: Grumello, Inferno, Sassella and Valgella. Sforsato, or Sfurzat, is a style of wine made from grapes left to dry for several months. Steep vineyards, at 400-1,000 meters elevation, make using mechanical equipment impossible, so all viticulture (removing soil, harvesting grapes, etc.) is done by hand. One grape variety is grown here, Chiavennasca, the local name for Nebbiolo. All wines produced in Valtellina must contain at least 90% Chiavennasca, which has been grown here since the 14th Century. Ironically, an ongoing university study seeks to prove that Lombardy was the birthplace of Nebbiolo, brought later to renowned Piedmont, home of Barolo and Barbaresco.

Established in 1897, Nino Negri is a recognized leader whose wines have helped raise the reputation of the rapidly emerging Valtellina region. The success of Nino Negri and the greater Valtellina region is due largely to the efforts of winemaker Casimiro Maule, named Winemaker of the Year in 2007 by Gambero Rosso, who has worked at Nino Negri since 1971.

The Nino Negri ‘Sfursat Tradizionale’ Valtellina DOCG 2004 has a distinct blend of characters. The wine’s aromas are airy and light, but with an earthy depth, with wild cherry pits, red plums, herbs and toasty oak notes. On the palate, the wine shows round fruit yet is terrifically focused, explosive, and has an enticing edge from its acidity. This will pair with grilled steak with mushrooms, roasts, rich-flavored beef, lamb or veal sausage and aged, hard cheeses. This sells for about 45$.

Nino Negri ‘Sfursat Tradizionale’ Valtellina DOCG ’05, Santi Amarone ‘Proemio’ ’05, Re Manfredi Aglianico del Vulture ’05 and Castello Monaci “Artas” Primitivo Salento ’06 all win ‘Tre Bicchieri’, Gambero Rosso’s Highest Award, to be presented in San Francisco, CA on Mar. 4, 2009 and New York, NY on Mar. 6, 2009.

Nino Negri ‘Sfursat 5 Stelle’ Valtellina DOCG ’05 and Re Manfredi Aglianico del Vulture “Serpara” ’04 earn ‘Cinque Grappoli’ (5 Grape Clusters) the highest honor given by Duemilavini 2009, published by the Italian Sommelier Association

Frederick Wildman & Sons Has Been Nominated "Importer of the Year" by Wine Enthusiast for its Winestar Awards 2008. Click oval for details.